Nou mats ik je effe:
even een beetje gekopieerd uit het ledendeel
Olie vervangen (is goed te doen met een beperkte technische kennis, zoals Zeeslot
)
Waar zitten de verschillende onderdelen:
The first drain plug is easy to find at the bottom of the oil tank on the right side. It is a hex-cap bolt with a 10 mm head. Remove the bolt and let the oil drain. The owner's manual says to retorque the bolt to 15 N-m (11 ft-lbs, 133 in-lbs). Due to the poor machining I've seen on the oil tank (mine has overcut threads), I would absolutely tighten this plug by hand. If there is any doubt, use a new M8 aluminum crush washer, and tighten it jut snug enough to feel the crush washer yield. Two people have emailed me to tell me they have stripped this plug, so be very careful!
The second drain plug is located on the kickstand side of the engine. It is a socket cap plug and mine was installed by a gorilia. The first time you remove it, use a tight fitting allen key. If it gives you any grief, use a hammer-driven impact on it instead of rounding it out. The plug is magnetic, and should be cleaned before reinstalling it. Tighten the plug to 12 N-m (9 ft-lbs, or 106 in-lbs).
Hier zit het oliefilter:
Behind the oil filter cover is a paper filter element (made by Champion, sold by Aprilia for about $14). Remove the two socket cap screws shown in the picture. The filter fill be pressed into the cover. Pry it loose (noting the orientation) and press on another another filter. The o-ring on the cover can be reused. I primed my filter by filling it with oil before installing it. Tighten the two cover screws just firmly.
There is a filter screen in the bottom of the oil tank that is supposed to be cleaned every other oil change. (I have not cleaned this yet, so I'm not speaking with experience here.) A good time to clean it is when you have the recalled hose replaced, because to service the filter you are supposed to remove the lower hose clamp on the oil tank. Make sure you have an extra hose clamp on hand before removing one of the "clic" clamps. After removing the hose, unscrew the tank filter and clean it with compressed air. Replace the filter and tighten it to 30 N-m (22 ft-lbs).
I've found that if you fill the cold oil level to the horizontal fin on the engine cover (see picture) when on the sidestand, the level will rise to nearly the MAX line when hot. Start with 3-1/2 quarts, idle the engine for a minute, then you will need to top it off. The owner's manual recommends checking the oil level with the engine hot (15-20 minutes riding), turned off, and held level. Internet wisdom has said otherwise, but I think there's more important things to worry about than 50 cc's of oil.
Misc stuff: I know oil is a controversial subject for some, so take these notes with a grain of salt.
The owner's manual says oil change interval is first 600 miles, then every 4500 miles (2300 miles if you race the bike).
The owner's manual says to use 15W-50 weight oil.
I've been changing my oil every 3000 miles, and using 15W-50 Mobil 1 (synthetic) since the 3,000 mile mark. In my opinion, the engine was not broken in fully by 600 miles by far, so I used regular non-synthetic oil at the first service. Lately (7,500 miles), I've been experiencing some clutch slippage in 2nd gear, so I'm going to try a different oil.
Update July 2001: I replaced my clutch at 7,500 mi and have been using semi-synthetic ever since. Motul 3100 last year and Torco semi-synth this year. 11,500 miles and no clutch slippage yet, although it is harder than ever to get it into neutral now with the Torco oil.
Update October 2002: After using nothing but semi-synthetic oil for the last 7,500 miles, I'm at 15,000 miles and need yet another clutch. I conclude the predominant cause of clutch failure on this bike is not related to oil.
bron:
http://www.geocities.com/sl_mille/oil.html
